Cubic Right Angle Weave Bracelet Tutorial: Sarah Millsop’s Step-by-Step Guide
What is ‘CRAW’ you ask? Well, for those of you who may be new to the world of jewellery-making, there are many beading terms that are shortened in patterns and written projects. CRAW actually stands for Cubic Right Angle Weave! With this particular technique, it means that each time we create a length of jewellery, it is a three-dimensional cube. So now we’ve explained the beading term CRAW, we’ thought you ought to see it in action! The lovely Sarah Millsop has created a beautiful CRAW bracelet, and the cubic right angle weave beading tutorial is below… enjoy!
The finished bracelet you see here, I created using 2mm plated spacer beads. These beads are fabulous to work with, and – although small – have a good-sized hole so it’s not too tricky for your eyesight!
To make the instructions easier for you to follow however, I have used large pearl beads. Each stage is represented in a different colour, so in each step, the new beads are clearly visible. I would recommend having a practise using different coloured beads like this until you are happy with your technique. Tension is key with this stitch, but if your work is a little loose, don’t worry. Your final step connecting all 4 ‘top’ beads should tighten your work and give you a good base for your next rounds.
Cut a length of thread approx. 1m long. Please note, you will need to connect new threads along your work, as we use a lot of thread! I have a tutorial video for this on my Sarah Millsop on Create and Craft Facebook Page. Begin by adding 4 beads and tie your threads together to secure in a square. Leave approx. 15cm of a tail. These 4 beads will become the base of our cube.
Move through 2 of your base beads to move away from your knot. Pick up 3 new beads and return your needle back through the base bead you are exiting, so you will loop 3 beads around a base bead, as shown. All of the new beads we are adding will become the ‘sides’ of your cube once we pull tight. Keep your work flat for the time being.
Move through the next base bead so you are positioned for your next set. Pick up 2 new beads, and return through the side bead from your previous step, and back through the base bead you are exiting. Again, to position yourself, also move through the next base bead.
Pick up 2 new beads and, just as in the previous step, move through the side bead in your last round and return through the base bead you are exiting. To position yourself, move through your final base bead also.
You can now pull the thread nice and tightly. You may find it helpful to wrap the tail thread around your fingers to help with tension. By pulling tightly, the ‘sides’ of your cubes will sit up (they may need some encouragement).
To tighten and secure, and also to position yourself back to the ‘top’ of the cube, you will need to bead through the base and side of the cube so that you have been around the complete square of this side set of beads. You will notice that the top of your cube is quite loose, this is because we have folded the sides into the centre, so none of the top beads are connected to each other.
You can now return to step 2 and repeat the process, using the top of your previous cube as your base beads. Remember to keep a neat tension…. and practise will make perfect!
I used just 1 bead at the very tip of my bracelet to close off the gap; I threaded this diagonally across the beads. This stitch does effectively give you a tube… so if you wanted to, you could even thread onto memory wire or beading wire.
You can see that the weave comes together beautifully with good tension. You should be able to return and tighten (by sewing around the beads again) any beads that do not quite sit right, even once you have passed them.
I really hope you enjoy making this piece as much as I do. It’s one of my favourite weaves, and a delight with these beads! Thanks go to Riverside Beads for a very on-trend finish to a bracelet that we crafters can create ourselves!
Lots of love,